Monday, February 14, 2011

Trip to Khlong Yai - Part 2

Part 2

The next morning I woke up when the uncle�s family got up. Once they left the room I cuddled with Bop to try and wake him to no avail but I lay there for another hour just holding him. I had slept well but now my back and side and neck was sore. I rose, showered and dressed and went out into the compound to find the family hard a work. Mother saw me and come over with a bowl with some creamy rice in the bottom, topped with something soft, smooth and yellow. I shouldn�t have smelled it. DURIAN!!. Mother stood there watch me expectantly. Was she doing this to the farang purposely? On the spoon I took a little durian and a lot of rice. Surprise! It didn�t taste half bad and mother�s face broke into a big grin. I finished the bowl then asked if there was any hot water available as I showed them the package of pre-mixed coffee I had brought. Grandmother waved me over to her house where she had an electric hot water thermos. She looked at the package and poured 2 cups of hot water. I produced another package and the two of us sat in the morning sun enjoying our coffee while the others worked around us. We met each morning for our private coffee break.

When Bop and Pond finally daned to join us, they explained they were going to go on one of the motorcycles and get something to eat. Returning an hour later, Bop came to me and asked if it was alright if he could go and visit some of his friends. �No problem.� I said, and off he went. At least he asked and it was only natural he would want to see his friends. I made myself busy asking all sorts of questions about the work with the shells and understood about 1/10th of the answers. I had a couple of novels to read also.

By now it was after noon and I was bored and hungry with no sign of food coming. I decided to go for a stroll through the town. It was Saturday and young O was off from school and playing in the street. �Bai nai?, he called. �To look around a get something to eat� �Bai duey?�, he asked. �Sure, you can be my guide� He took the task seriously and showed me his school, 2 wats, the bank, snooker hall and finally the market. I noticed one of the straps on his flip-flops kept coming detached. I pointed to some new ones and he nodded enthusiastically. In the end he acquired, � length camouflage pants, a t-shirt, 3 pairs of underwear, a hat and a small, 70baht battery-powered game. As we neared his house, I gave him 100 baht telling him it was payment for being a good guide. He entered the compound in triumph but the family was concerned over my whereabouts.


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Out of the blue it was announced that we the family were going to Cambodia to shop and buy food for dinner. �I don�t have a visa!� �No problem�, I was assured and into the truck we got. For 30 minutes we drove through lush, rolling hills along the coast passing picturesque, deserted beaches. There was a lot of road construction to make the two lanes into four.

We arrive at the small fishing village of Hat Lek that boasts a large market straddling the highway. As far as I can recon, it�s a special economic zone situated between the Thai and Cambodian custom houses. There were good bargains so my wallet was very busy. Among the food and other household supplies, the boys bought fishing rods. I discovered the reason for the road widening. Just on the other side of the boarder, a new casino had just opened for business. Immediately I remembered those secluded beach coves we passes and I thought of the possibilities if only I had enough money.

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From Hat Lek pier looking into Cambodia and the casino.



Back at the house I sat down with Bop and indicated to him that my money was disappearing faster than our budget expected. I took out what remained of the 8000 baht, added another 1000 and told him to give it to mama so she could pay for the rest of the trip. �No no!�, he yelled. He said mama was a cheat and it would be better to give it to papa. He did and that was the last of my money worries.

That night we feasted on the crabs purchased in Hat Lek. Bop went out with his friends and I slept alone on the floor. I was a little more comfortable as I bought one of those mattresses in a bag.

The next morning I noticed no one was working. There was excitement in the air in the compound. A bleary-eyed Bop explained we were all going to the beach. I had about two minutes to prepare before the trucks pulled out. I always seemed to what was happening.
The back of one truck was filled with Bop and Pond�s friends � many of which I recognized from Bop�s gogo bar.

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It was 20 minute drive back towards Trat to get to Muk Kaew Beach. This beach was spectacular. Soft white sand stretched as far as the eye could see and the ocean looked clear and clean. We commandeered 2 covered platforms � one for the adults and one for the young�uns. I was conflicted as to where to sit so I headed for a swim. Heavenly!


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When I got back each platform had their own bottles of whiskey, mixers, ice and small snacks. Lively chatter, music, singing filled the scene as sanook broke out all over. Then the food began to arrive. So much food from the beach concession. It was a great time!

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One strange event occurred later in the afternoon. I noticed 15 year old Pond and 10 year old O sitting cross legged on the platform with glasses and whiskey bottle between them. Everyone was laughing and enjoying the situation�even the uncle policeman. The 2 boys were engaged in a rock,paper,sissors game where the consequence of losing a throw was to guzzle the glass of whiskey/coke. In a short amount of time both boys were falling down drunk. Again I was unsure how to respond so I just smiled and went for my 7th swim.


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The following day was a slow rising day for almost everyone. In the morning O and me watched a dvd movie on my computer then read my novel until Bop got up. I was hoping he could show me around the town on the motorbike, however he announced he wanted to go and play snooker with his friends. ��Bai duey�, I asked wanting to go with him. �Oh no! Not good!�, he exclaimed and others nearby nodded their agreement. Again, long story short, they did not want a farang wandering the town with young people. My mouth dropped open. I was aghast and embarrassed. But then again, we weren�t in Pattaya anymore Toto. Thinking back, I remembered some boys yelling remarks a O when he guided me around � remarks that I could see upset him but I didn�t put 2 and 2 together then. That was when I decided I wouldn�t be returning to Khlong Yai for a long time. The father stepped in and solved the matter by saying he would go as well so I could go two. Snooker wasn�t much fun that day.

That night the weather turned and it was decided we would head home the next day. I was ready for my own bed. In the morning we had a quick eat then packed up the truck. Four of Bop�s friends from the bar arrived and I realized they were going to hitch a ride back to Pattaya so again we�d be cramped in the truck. Luggage in, people in, tip to grandmother, thankyous to all and papa began turning the truck around to leave. I�m hoping for a quicker ride home. Not to be.

The aunt rushed up to the truck and spoke to mama. A yelling match broke out that lasted 15 minutes in the hot sun. In the end, everyone got out of the truck and the luggage removed then 8 potato sacks filled with processed shells were brought to be delivered in Ban Phe�only 60 kilometres off course. Before we were cramped, now it seemed impossible but not quite. In Ban Phe it took 30 minutes to find the store that sold shell curtains.

Half way back near Chantabury we turned off the highway. �Now what�, I mumbled into sleeping, Pond�s hair. �Waterfall�, Bop happily announced, �You did say you wanted to see a waterfall.� That was 7 days ago, now I just wanted to see my bed. Nevertheless we arrived at Phliu Waterfall National Park and I must say it was worth the stop no matter the situation. You could spend a whole day here wandering the trails, marvelling at the many waterfalls and swimming in the many pools. But the highlight was the vegetable-eating protected fish that filled every pool. Throw in a long bean and the fish swarmed like a school of piranha. But better than that, you could swim with the fish and have them jostle around and over you as you fed them. Amazing!!

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On this trip there were many moments that perplexed, annoyed and upset me. There were many moments fill with happiness and sanook. Good or bad it was all an interesting educational experience I won�t forget but I wouldn�t want to repeat. But I probably will.

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