Two truths are clear if I’m to enjoy my retirement in Thailand. One, learn the language so accurate communication can avoid confusion and, two, get some hearing aids.
Sang and Neung phoned me at 11:00 am to say everyone was meeting at the JJJ house on Soi 10 before going to see Bhudda at a celebration in Sattahip. I was looking forward to spending the day with a group of young Thais and absorbing a bit of Thai culture in a town I had yet to visit.
I rented a bike for the day from Cho at TwoGuys guest house, wrestled Dae out of my bed and we made our way to Soi 10. We had to stop to fill the empty gas tank. (Why is it every vehicle I have rented in Thailand is inevitably bereft of gas.) We arrived at a locked, quiet house filled with sleeping boys, ladyboys and a mamasan. Neung and Sang arrived an hour later and another hour after that we piled on 4 motorbikes and a hired songtaow and headed south along Sukumvit to Sattahip. Lovely drive with little traffic.
We stop in Sattahip at a tarp covered food stand located in a very large, mostly vacant lot whose paved surface was a perfect reflector for a very hot sun. This over-heated culinary oasis was about 150 meters from the cooling shores of the Gulf of Siam. TIT I gave Dae 3000 bhat and told him it was to be doled out a needed for the group. Kow Phat was ordered for all and I have to admit it was delicious and the general happiness of everyone made the heat quite tolerable. By this time there were about 16 of us and many passerbys were flagged down and welcomed as old friends.
After satiating our hunger a loose procession formed up and we made our way on bikes and walking to the shore and to a large public pavilion for the picnic. Picnic? Where’s the Bhudda? Where’s the MorLam?
In the shaded pavilion cooled by the breezes of the ocean we staked our claim to one corner where beer, whiskey, mixers, (even some diet coke for the farang) and a large cooler of ice suddenly appeared. The bar was open. A cell phone provided music and soon sanook filled the air. It was a lovely spot for a picnic with great views of the bay and the naval station.
There was not a beach to be seen and the waves splashed up to the base of the pavilion. I noticed a series of round, concrete stepping stones stretching from the pavilion into the ocean. I announced a prize of 100 bhat to the first person to reach the 12th stone. I figured, being Thai, they would roll up their jeans and gingerly venture out trying to keep their balance in the waves. But no! Three boys threw off their shirts, dropped their pants and rushed into the sea in their boxers. I guess gogo boys aren’t as modest as most Thais.
Soon a feast of fried chicken appeared. By now there were about 20 in the group.
About 4:00pm, Sang told me we were now going to the Wat. Ah, finally we see Bhudda and enjoy mor lam. I had to be somewhat stern to get everyone to help clean up the picnic’s garbage. Again the boys took off on the bikes leaving the farang and the ladyboys to walk to the Wat with parasols raised. We must have made an interesting parade.
The wat’s grounds were filled with vender stalls, games and amusement rides. The 2 temples were beautiful and I could see people going inside to make merit but the lure of bargains and thrill rides overcame the need to see Bhudda. I noticed Dae carefully handing out money for trinkets, t-shirts and shorts. Neung wanted some shoes but Dae told him they were too much.
The bumper cars at 20 bhat a ride was the highlight. The frenzy of the Thai drivers in a controlled setting was something, even I, couldn’t resist. Many went back for more mayheim. I made some merit by buy rides for a falorn looking group of school boys who were enthusiastic in their appreciation.
At 5:30 it was announced we had to hurry back to Pattaya so the boys wouldn’t belate for work. But what about Bhudda? What about Issan dancing? I guess they were lost in translation. Nevertheless for me the fun of the day was not lost. Another great memory.
By the way, that night Dae handed me 550 bhat. Change from my 3000. Unbelievable!!
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